Book notes: A Guide to Quality, Taste, and Style by Tim Gunn

“Quality, Taste, and Style,” is my operative tenet for most of what I do. It’s another way of saying, “The Best.”

It struck me that a closet isn’t a clothing store. It’s a collection of items that reside there for the purpose of being chosen—or not. So why is it that I so frequently ponder and search, but come up empty, declaring, “I’ll need to shop for X so that this dilemma can be reconciled”? That’s the wrong approach. The correct approach is to make it work! I merely need to take my own medicine!

suggest that we all come to terms with what fashion looks we gravitate toward and then analyze them for their particulars: items of apparel, color stories, accessories, even hair

take into account your coloring, your height, and your silhouette. Look carefully at the proportion of the clothes in relation to your body and the proportions of each item in relation to the others. Where does the skirt’s hem end on your leg? What about the jacket’s shoulders and arm length? Where does the jacket hit the skirt? With each and every addition of an item, silhouette and proportion change.

Which fabrics do you feel most comfortable in? How do you accessorize? Where do you shop? What does your carriage say about you?

Who you are embraces everything about you, from your family’s origins to your predilections for particular films and music, to your fantasies and reveries, to your weekly routines. It’s also your size, shape, and proportions, and your coloring. And it’s the city or town in which you live, your home, and your friends and colleagues. It’s milieu.

How we dress sends a message about who we are, or at least how we want the world to perceive us.

I found a great one at Saks. It was Hugo Boss and it was—gulp—800. I loved it. I bought it. And I left Saks in a retail daze, because 800 was my clothing budget for the year. I crossed Fifth Avenue to Rockefeller Center and stumbled into Banana Republic. I recognized that I was in a stupor, but I believed that I spotted a black leather blazer identical to the one I just bought. Was that possible? I moved forward and, sure enough, it was entirely possible. More important, the blazer was only 400! I bought it. I even opened a Banana Republic account and saved 20 percent, too. Then, I crossed Fifth Avenue, again, to return the earlier purchase. I was so proud of myself: mission accomplished and at a 50 percent savings!

I believe that most of us think the same way about our wardrobe; that is, we like having a uniform. Not one uniform, but a number of various looks, the components of which can be mixed around and accessorized. It’s essential that you identify looks—not merely items of clothing, but combinations that will be worn together: the silhouettes, proportions, colors, and textures of which flatter and enhance you. Then, stick with them! Do not stray! And don’t ever forget about fit!

ask my students to please not use the phrases, “I like it,” and “I don’t like it,” because, frankly, who cares whether you like it or don’t like it? Allow yourself to make a distinction between what appeals to you and what works for you.

So, let me suggest some opening phrases that can allow you to have a more meaningful exchange of thoughts and observations: POSITIVE:

“I find this (insert item here) to be compelling, because . . .” “I respond well to this, because . . .” “I’m attracted to this, because . . .” NEGATIVE: “I’m not responding well to this, because . . .” “This isn’t working for me, because

How do you want the world to perceive you? If your answer is, “I don’t give a damn,” then fine, do what you want to do.

Ask yourself, “Am I wearing the clothes or are the clothes wearing me?” If the answer is the latter, then you’re in the costume trap.

Our goal is for you to be unflinchingly confident in who you are. Own that person. Own your look.

We all strive to have our wardrobe fit us like a glove. Due to our unique proportions and the vagaries of sizing, it sometimes seems the best we’ll be able to achieve is finding clothing that fits like a mitten.

Fit is the most neglected aspect of how we dress; that is, most people wear clothes that are either too big or too small or a combination of both.

Vanity sizing is a contrivance of the retail world—not the design industry. The thinking goes like this: Imagine the potential consequence of the consumer who is confronted with the “truth” about her size; that is, she’s not the size 10 she thought she was, but she’s actually a size 18. The retail world fears that this consumer will flee from the store empty-handed. Of course, once one realizes how variable these numbers are—and this may take some practice—it will allow you to focus on fit, not size.

that statement implies to the consumer that all size 8s, for example, are the same—they’re not. Why? Two factors are involved. First, the design of the garment determines the placement of the waist, the sleeve length, the length of the skirt, the diameter of the jacket, etc. These factors are why some clothes are slim-fitted while others are boxy or blouson. The second factor is related to price. For example, why is a Donna Karan Collection basic black dress (about 7,500) in a size 8 an entirely different fit than a DKNY basic black dress (about 350) in the same size? Because sizing has changed at the mid-to-lower end of the price scale and has remained the same for 40 years at the higher end.

If you look great in something, who cares what size it is?

If the size 8 fits, but makes me look bigger, while the size 10 flows gracefully over my figure, actually making me appear smaller, which size should actually be considered the “larger” size?

And we make an assumption about a shared goal of most readers; that is, to find proportions and silhouettes that together make your body look as long and lean as possible under the circumstances.

keep some perspective when evaluating your flaws.

You are height-challenged:

Your figure is perhaps the most challenging to visually lengthen, but it can, indeed, be achieved. High-waisted pants, skirts, and dresses are your friends, as is a monochromatic palette.

Most people believe that extra-roominess in coats and jackets is an asset. It’s not. It has the potential to make you look like a circus tent. Too many people buy outerwear calculating what size will accommodate their bulkiest article of clothing.

What is a closet, really, but a catalogue of the different personas we have auditioned and discarded? Hanging there in our closets are reminders, both good and bad, of who we are, who we’ve been, and who we’ve hoped to be.

But there is one thing that deeply shocks me—American closets. I cannot believe one can dress well when you have so much.” —Andrée Putman

A utilitarian closet is a beautiful thing and absolutely nothing to be ashamed of. What is important is that the closet provides you a relaxed environment from which to select your clothes.

set aside space for four separate piles.

The eternal task of discovering what makes one happy is closely linked to the idea of discovering one’s “authentic self.”

We find these two ideas in volume one of Kierkegaard’s 1843 book Either/Or.

As the title implies, this book is about choice and that is exactly what he suggests you do: Make a choice. In fact, he states that if you do not make choices for yourself, someone else will make them for you.

This simple but powerful idea is not just a life lesson; it is the basis of all personal style. Notice the use of the word “personal.” This is not style as dictated—another word for “chosen”—by fashion editors, friends, or pop stars. It is an expression of what speaks to each individual’s soul. Listening is not always easy,

There may be missteps along the way, but the reward—which is having pride and courage in the convictions of your closet—is worth it.

Søren. He counsels that the unmediated choice is the only choice one will never regret. That means no agonizing over whether or not to keep the jumpsuit. If you have to ask, the answer is: Throw it away. If, however, the item causes heart palpitations of happiness, it goes in pile number one:

The Soul-Stirring Pile.

If a beloved garment needs some attention, put it in The Repair Pile. You now have exactly five days to go to the dry cleaner or tailor.

The Give-Away and The Throw-Out Piles are where things often get hairy, as in filled with dangers or difficulties.

Let’s look at what remains in the common closet after the Soul Stirrers and Repairs have been set aside,

ITEMS THAT DON’T FIT

There is no reason to have something taking up space in your closet that does not make you feel good.

Clothes do not exist to humiliate their owners. Please do not force garments into performing psychological tasks for which they were not designed. Furthermore, please be kind to yourself. They don’t fit. Toss ’em.

ITEMS SO EXPENSIVE YOU FEEL HORRIBLY GUILTY GETTING RID OF THEM

Mistakes were made; find the unloved items a new home.

As they hit the Give-Away Pile, whisper a solemn oath to not make such silly purchases again. Repeat: Cheap Is Chic, Cheap Is Chic, Cheap Is Chic.

WORK CLOTHES

Do you choose to wear the same pair of black slacks as every other woman in your office? Or is it a matter of channeling all your personality into your leisure wardrobe?

Work can be draining enough without having to wear drab things devoid of any spark.

If you wouldn’t want to run into an ex-lover, that’s a sure sign you could do better. For the rest of your work wardrobe, if you can’t summon more than a “meh,” we respectfully suggest you get rid of it.

THOSE ITEMS THAT—FOR REASONS UNKNOWN—YOU NEVER WEAR

THE ITEM KEPT BECAUSE ONE DAY, IT MAY BE CHIC AGAIN

SCENES OF FORMER TRIUMPHS These are items that you would never, ever wear but keep for purely sentimental reasons.

THE REPEATS, REDUXES, AND REPRISES

If you shop like a drunken sailor, chances are that you own far more than you will ever be able to wear. This leads to Creeping Closet Syndrome—the sad state of affairs in which your wardrobe takes over your home.*

EXCEPTIONS

We are loath to admit it, but in certain very rare cases it is permissible to keep a piece that is never worn. We’ve all asked older relatives why they didn’t hold on to that fabulous outfit we’ve seen in photos. It is permissible to keep something for posterity. However, it is highly unlikely that more than one piece per closet overhaul is worthy of preservation

If radical shape-shifting is going on—a diet or pregnancy—of course it makes sense to hold on to items that will soon fit again.

WHAT YOU LOVE

Well done! The wheat and chaff have been parted. Only delightful pieces should remain.

look for a connection, a narrative through-line. In other words, is there something that the pieces you love have in common? Bright colors, marabou trim? Sumptuous fabrics and shades of gray? Sometimes seeing all of one’s favorites grouped together can be a bit of a shock.

First, congratulations—your soul has spoken!

Look closely at the pieces. What do they have in common? Is it a shared silhouette? Are they waist enhancing or perhaps light and ethereal? What the pieces have in common can be thought of as their form.

Each day you must wear one soul-stirring item. Think of it as strength training for the style muscles. Too often we “save” things we love for a special occasion; as a result we rarely wear the very things we love best.

After you have assembled your Soul-Stirring Pile, take another look. Does everything deserve to be there? Be ruthless. If the thought of giving away an item that was so fun five years ago makes you sad, by all means grieve. Then get rid of it.

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The best way to utilize a style mentor is to be inspired to investigate and experiment.

THE MENTORS

As we put this list together, it became obvious that one thing tied these women together: They always look like themselves.

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The Lesson: No matter how spectacular a look, if the person inside it is bent, lopsided, crumpled, or otherwise hunched, there is simply no saving it. Far too many people, men and women alike, are walking around completely unaware that with a few simple adjustments they could look and feel immeasurably better.

Well-positioned shoulders are not achieved by actually putting them “back.” Instead, you must do the following: Focus on pulling the shoulders away from the ears. Imagine drawing the shoulder blades down the back and allowing the collarbone to be as open as possible without thrusting the breast forward.

Ms. Lane suggests that in order to bring the pelvis into proper alignment, one should imagine slipping between two tables at a crowded restaurant. Instinctively, one tucks one’s bottom under and draws the navel into the spine. This is the proper position for one’s pelvis.

Grace is the result of a body working smoothly. Grace is available to everyone; forget any associations with debutante balls or porcelain-painting classes. Cultivating it is simply a matter of becoming aware of how one is moving and correcting any quirks. The body is like an ecosystem—a knee slightly out of line means a thigh bone out of place, which means the hip is out of place. Surely you get the picture. The key to successful perambulation, ignored by too many, is so simple it’s almost embarrassing. Ready? Here it is: Let your legs do the walking. Before you throw this book down in disgust, try this: Stand up and lift your leg from the thigh. Not from the hip, but lift from the top of the leg itself. Now take stock of the position you find yourself in. Are you leaning forward? Have you subtly popped the opposing hip out? Focus on bringing all those popping hips and raised shoulders back into line. You may want to try this in front of a mirror; often what feels aligned to us is not. We are so accustomed to being crooked, we don’t know the difference! Now take a few steps while thinking of keeping the pelvis in bistro position, shoulders down and relaxed, and the head resting lightly on the neck. Heads have a habit of drifting forward, as if the hairline needs to arrive before the rest of you. Gently bring that anxious head back in line.

Changing one’s posture, both walking and standing still, takes time.

Here are three foot and fashion faux pas to avoid:

1. Flip-Flop Waddle. Every summer, people all over celebrate the arrival of temperate weather by casting aside constricting winter shoes in favor of the flip-flop. Although we have discussed the flip-flop’s appropriateness in various situations, we have not mentioned the very real problem of flip-flop–induced waddling.

The time has come for you to really “own” that lovely dermis that covers you. Barring

Style is not just about clothes, nor is it something bestowed upon you if you are the correct shape or size. Style is about the way you hold yourself and move through the world. It is about paying attention to the details of you, which means embracing and taking full advantage of what you have to work with.

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THE TOP TEN

if you love a crisp button-down, and it flatters you, fabulous. But if a gorgeous cream cashmere shell better serves your torso, let that be your basic.

1. The Trench-ish Coat. Like so many other enduring looks, the trench coat got its start in the armed services.

2. The Sweat Suit Alternative. There is something appealing about pretending we live lives that require prim little suits during the day and only the most challenging vintage Balenciaga by night. Even if that is your life, isn’t

it safe to assume that every so often you just need to be comfortable and enjoy some easy, unrestricted movement?

3. The Boot,

4. The Shapely Jacket and the Go-Anywhere Top. In fall and winter, throwing on a beautifully fitting blazer with jeans and boots is always chic.

5. Signature Jewelry.

as you run from place to place, a striking watch is always appropriate and functional.

6. The Under Arsenal.

9. The New, Cheap, Terribly Trendy Item. Think of this as the pressure-release valve. An unavoidable part of style is discipline. But all that refusing in the name of elegance can feel restrictive.

With the arrival of stores like H&M and Forever 21, you can buy a trendy item without having to stare mournfully at it four months later wondering why in God’s name you spent four hundred dollars

10. Denim.

The basic denim wardrobe requires two fabulous pairs, one for dressing up and one for running around.

The Blind Spot: False economy. When shopping, the temptation to scrimp on more practical items is ever present. Please, please resist. Although the idea of spending more on a black cardigan, or high-quality-but-sedate undergarments, or another pair of gray flannel cuffed trousers may leave you cold, it is undoubtedly the right choice. By choosing to spend less on an item you wear all the time, you will ultimately end up spending more as your cheap item requires repairs or replacement. Instead, make your rallying cry “Buying well means buying once!”

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The Lesson: We shop out of boredom, for release, for excitement, for a sense of achievement, for a sense of control over our unruly existences.

“Fashion can be bought. Style one must possess.” —Edna Woolman Chase

In this chapter we point out certain things to be aware of in each of the shopping venues that dominate the landscape today.

However, living in a world where you can pick up a dress by a runway darling a few aisles from the Cheez-Its means that newer forms of shopping discretion must be used.

We humans need variety!

The same goes for those who live in climates that don’t change very much. Even Palm Beach needs to swap in lime green for black—or at least switch to lime green in duchess satin—once in a while.

The other argument against seasonally inappropriate fabrics is far more sober: In them you will look either under- or overdressed.

Clothing in fabrics too light for the season in which it is being sold is now popping up all over the place, not just at the discount stores we mention.

Good design is about a marriage of form and function.

What too often happens with the more complex pieces is that you are getting the form with a seriously diminished function. It may be a leather jacket for 60, but if it is as stiff as an old boot—and not a nice, worn-in old boot—why would you want to wear it?

Stock up on basics at these emporia, but be wary of pieces that seem too good to be true.

always try before you buy, period. Sizing can be erratic and 20 is too much to spend if you are never going to wear it.

THE SHOPPING SAFARI

Forget everything you know—just for now—and strike out for the hinterlands.

DEPARTMENT STORES: KNOWING YOUR BUYER

The department store no longer has the hold it once did on our shopping lives. Mergers and market changes have done away with some of the greats—

The smart shopper takes that one step further by acquainting herself with the buyer of her preferred lines. We are not suggesting you Google until you find out the buyer’s name and invite her to a movie; only that you get a feel for her aesthetic at work.

A great way to familiarize yourself with the different sensibilities at work is to visit, as we did, the same designer at two different stores.

THE HIGH-END BOUTIQUE:

One of the few nice things about having less money than one would like is the discipline it fosters.

If you are attracted to the big names—Chanel, Burberry—they all have outlets these days.

Before plunking down a huge sum, why

not visit the boutique, note what you like, and then call the outlet? Nothing ventured, nothing gained—and you might save yourself a significant amount of money.

The individually owned boutique is often the most exciting and inspiring place to shop.

If the owner is on target, each piece should fit, aesthetically speaking, with the others, creating a jewelry box of a universe.

THE OUTLET: EVER SO SLIGHTLY OFF

Suddenly it seemed every store had an outlet. Seeing a new opportunity, companies started manufacturing clothing specifically for their outlet stores.

Often items created exclusively for an outlet are sized differently.

Usually the outlet-specific items are made from different textiles, which can affect the way they fit.

We are of two minds on outlet shopping. It is possible to find great deals on pieces that a line makes year after year. This is surgical-strike outlet shopping. You know what you want, you call ahead, receive confirmation, and swoop in. The second, more dangerous form of outlet shopping is the open-minded browsing approach. This involves, as you might imagine, going from store to store and seeing if anything catches your fancy. Why is this dangerous? Well, the idea of a sale seems to short-circuit the brain’s discernment apparatus.

The old adage is that you should never buy something on sale that you wouldn’t buy at full price.

VINTAGE: SMELLY, EXPENSIVE, AND JUST RIGHT

Once “vintage” had a more specific meaning than it does today. Generally speaking, it meant something at least twenty-five years old, usually older.

THE INTERNET: ALL SHOPPING, ALL THE TIME

The idea of ordering clothing sight unseen is not new; catalogues have been offering the opportunity for eons.

Be aware of pinning. This is a shopping rule that should always be followed, since many brick-and-mortar stores are guilty of the exact same thing. Here’s how it goes: You see a boat-neck sweater online—or in a window—that hugs the curves of the form it is on. Perfect! Just what you want to go with your fuller skirts. You click and it’s yours. After a few days of happy anticipation your sweater arrives, and it’s a flour sack. Yes, it’s the same sweater but some crafty merchandiser realized that no one would want such a shapeless rag so, using binder clips or some other such device, pulled the excess fabric taut on the mannequin and snapped the picture. There are a couple of ways to get around devious pinning. One, if you are shopping in a store, compare the pieces in the window to the same pieces on a hanger. If they look curvy and fitted in the window and boxy and loose on the hanger, you are among pinners.

If you are shopping online, pay extremely close attention to the description of the fabric included with the item. This often indicates the snugness of the fit. By doing a little research in your own closet you can gauge how much 5 percent spandex in a pair of jeans will affect the fit. Then apply the knowledge to your online endeavors.

INSTANT GRATIFICATION: H&M

We are continually, continually surprised by how much good stuff is available for so little money at these places.

H&M reduces shopping to its most instinctual: you hunt, you stalk, you pounce.

The question you must ask yourself as you prepare to shop is this: Am I an ungulate or a big cat? We, personally, use the big cat approach. It favors speed and focus. That way you’ll have made your purchases—or at least be in line—by the time your nerves start to go from all the stimulation.

Perhaps you are of a calmer temperament, more of a wildebeest than a cheetah. The wildebeest takes longer to shop than the cheetah, but her chances of finding something great are higher since she can patiently paw through the piles.

The salient question to ask is: “Why am I shopping today?” This should not be an exercise in self-mortification, simply a little question-and-answer with the self. Maybe you’ve had an absolutely infuriating week at work and need to blow off some of that nervous energy. A walk will do you good. Promise yourself that you will pick out a treat—yes, you’ve made it through a bad week, you deserve it. The key is to make the treat something that will make you happy as you finish the day browsing, without stressing your budget or adding another piece of clothing/pair of shoes/handbag to your stuffed closet.

The Blind Spot: This whole “you deserve it, lip gloss is a tonic for the soul” business does not mean that you should consider a weekly lip gloss bill in the three figures appropriate. If you do find that you are constantly tempted to shop for emotional release, take a harder look at what is making you feel stressed.

The Lesson: Simple enhancement or opportunity for unchecked theatricality? In the last ten years accessories have made a stunning return to the fashion stage. Now toddlers covet their mother’s Manolos and small dogs refuse to be carried in anything that didn’t cost their mistresses an arm and a leg. This is telling since animals and children are attracted to big, sparkly things and that’s exactly what many of today’s more popular accessories are: Too big, too shiny. You wouldn’t let your Yorkie select your outfit, presumably, so why should Mr. Squeaks dictate your choice in bags?

The Lesson: Remember when you were a child and had party clothes? Those carefree days of white anklets and patent leather Mary Janes? With adulthood, one gains so much—as lovely as a Shirley Temple may be, a cabernet works better with dinner—but the ease of dressing for festive events is gone forever.

VARIATIONS OF BLACK TIE: OPTIONAL, ENCOURAGED, AND CREATIVE These directives speak much more to men. Briefly, they can be interpreted thusly: Black Tie Optional allows for a dark suit, white shirt, and dressy tie if you do not have a tuxedo. Black Tie Encouraged is a way to strongly suggest that a tux be worn without making those who do not own tuxes feel inadequate. Creative Black Tie is simply an excuse to wear a fresher incarnation of the tux—a black shirt or different type of tie, perhaps. For many men it might be simpler to keep the conversation creative and opt for classic black tie.

THE GLOSSARY

alpaca

Cousin of the camel, alpaca fleece is spun into a soft shiny yarn. Often combined with other fibers, alpaca is commonly used in sweaters, coats, and wraps. Similar to mohair. Alpacas themselves are social creatures with charming little faces, if one likes ungulates. astrakhan A pile fabric woven to mimic Persian lamb. Originally, the curly fleece of astrakhan sheep was used.

batik

A wax-resist dying method from Indonesia. The desired pattern is traced on fabric with wax and then dyed. The wax is removed to reveal the pattern, which has remained the original color of the fabric.

batiste

Soft, lightweight, and delicate cotton with a lovely hand. See hand.

calico

A favorite of the Little House on the Prairie set, this is a cotton fabric printed on one side.

camel hair

As you no doubt guessed, a warm and soft yarn from the hair of the camel. Makes a wonderful coat.

cashmere

Those poor ungulates, never a moment’s peace! Yet another luxurious yarn that comes from a four-legged creature, in this case a goat. Soft and warm, cashmere is king of the knits.

challis

Sheer wool fabric often printed with floral designs. charmeuse A silky fabric with a crepe back, charmeuse can be made with a variety of fabrics, i.e., silk charmeuse. It is very difficult to work with, as every mistake shows, much to the chagrin of many beginning sewers. chiffon An almost transparent fabric known for its lightness and ability to drape.

corduroy

A heavier fabric distinguished by its wales, which vary in size from quite subtle and close together (pinwhale) to far apart and very noticeable (wide wale). cotton duck A heavy cotton fabric that, depending on weight, can be used for clothing, sails, or upholstery.

dart

A V-shaped tuck that allows fabric to form itself to the body. Well-placed darts are an essential part of a well-constructed garment. When trying a garment on, check to make sure that the dart placement works for your figure.

doupioni

A silk fabric made from an uneven yarn that produces slubs in the fabric. Slubs are little bumps that give the fabric a textured appearance.

epaulet

An ornamental piece of fabric on the shoulder, most often on coats, but popping up on all manner of tops occasionally. Think of those shoulder items on a military trenchcoat and you’ll know what an epaulet is.

flannel

A lightly napped fabric with a soft, somewhat cozy hand. Excellent, excellent for trousers, especially in gray.

French cuff

A shirt cuff that folds back—doubles—and is often fastened with a cuff link.

gabardine

Available in both cotton and wool varieties, gabardine is a tightly woven fabric that is often made into pants and coats. The cotton variety is often used for trenchcoats.

hand

Literally, how the fabric feels to your hand. Cashmere has a soft hand; burlap a rough one.

jersey

Not just a fabric, it’s a whole classification. Silk jersey, wool jersey, rayon jersey, the list goes on and on. What they have in common is the fact that they are a knit without a rib: that means they are smooth and usually drape well.

lawn

A delicate, soft cotton that works beautifully in summer dresses and blouses.

linen

A fabric that comes from the flax plant. There is nothing cooler in the heat of summer and the fact that it wrinkles like crazy is just part of its charm.

merino wool

A high-quality wool yarn that comes from merino sheep.

mohair

Hair from the angora goat, used for everything from sweaters and coats to upholstery. Can be a bit prickly, so often works well in a blend.

muslin

Cotton fabric used primarily for prototyping garments.

passmenterie

Trimmings, like braid or cord. A lovely word.

piqué A durable cotton with a raised, woven design.

raffia

A palm fiber often woven to create hats or a decorative trim.

seersucker

A puckered, striped cotton fabric associated with southern dandies and their white-shoe–wearing brethren. A lovely, classic material for summer wear. That means Labor Day arrives, off goes the seersucker.

self belt

Any belt made of the same fabric as the garment it comes with. You are not wedded to the self belt, and can always wear something else if you wish.